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Raw Material Quality: The Foundation of Apparel Excellence
In garment manufacturing, fabric accounts for 60% to 70% of total garment cost. Cutting into defective fabric creates a domino effect: flawed pieces migrate down the sewing line, resulting in rejected garments, high rework costs, and delayed shipping dates.
The 4-Point Fabric Inspection System (standardized under ASTM D5430 / ASQC) is the universally accepted method for visually grading woven and knitted fabrics before the cutting process begins.
How the 4-Point System Works: Penalty Point Scale
Under the 4-point system, defect penalty points are assigned solely based on the length or physical size of the flaw, regardless of its underlying cause:
| Defect Length (Warp or Weft) | Holes / Openings | Penalty Points |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 3 inches (75 mm) | Holes up to 1 inch (25 mm) | 1 Point |
| Over 3 inches up to 6 inches (150 mm) | Holes over 1 inch | 2 Points |
| Over 6 inches up to 9 inches (230 mm) | — | 3 Points |
| Over 9 inches (230 mm) | — | 4 Points |
Key Rule: No single linear yard of fabric can receive more than 4 penalty points, regardless of how many defects are clustered within that yard.
Calculating Points Per 100 Square Yards
To determine whether a fabric roll meets standard commercial grade, total points are calculated on a standardized 100-square-yard basis using this formula:
Points per 100 sq. yards = (Total Penalty Points × 3,600) / (Inspected Fabric Yards × Fabric Width in Inches)
Standard Acceptance Benchmarks:
- Woven Cottons & Synthetics: Typically accepted up to 20–28 points per 100 sq. yards.
- Denim: Accepted up to 28–35 points per 100 sq. yards.
- Knitted Fabrics: Accepted up to 30–40 points per 100 sq. yards (depending on knit structure and buyer criteria).
Critical Fabric Defects to Watch For
- Barre / Striping: Horizontal repeating bands caused by yarn tension variation or uneven dye affinity.
- Shade Variation (Roll-to-Roll & Center-to-Selvedge): Visual color tone differences between adjacent pattern pieces.
- Skewing / Bowing: Diagonal fabric grain distortion that causes twisting in finished T-shirts and trousers after washing.
- Slubs, Knots, and Contamination: Foreign colored fibers or thick yarn segments woven or knitted into the substrate.
Ensure Fabric Compliance Before Cutting:
Veritex International performs on-site 4-Point fabric inspection, shade sorting, and fabric laboratory testing in Bangladesh textile mills and garment factories. Talk to our fabric testing specialists today.